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[SLUG] evolution: how to change font size

I was reading my email in evolution and did an unintentional random
key/click sequence, and now the message frame in evolution has doubled
it's font size. (the other frames are the normal size). 

The evolution help says that I have to change fonts in preferences/mail
preferences, but that doesn't seem to work.

I would really like to know how to change it back. There doesn't seem to
be an obvious menu item, and google produces lots of stuff about
intelligent design.